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The only way
to stand atop Mount
Race
and take in its sweeping views, is to
hike long and hard from somewhere...as there are
no easy routes to Mount Race. No matter where you
start, you'll have to take on some of the steepest
parts of the Appalachian Trail (A.T.) in the
northwestern Connecticut and southwestern Massachusetts region. But if
you're in reasonably good hiking shape and not in
a hurry, you can create a wonderful all day hike
that will reward you many times over.
Besides being beyond many day hikers
ability, Mount Race is overshadowed by many of it's neighbors and
therefore a lot of folks who have hiked in this region have never been
there. Race Brook Falls, Mt. Everett, Bear Mt. (CT's highest peak),
Sages Ravine, Mt. Frissell (CT's highest point), Mt. Washington, Jug
End are some of the more well known and frequented nearby spots. Mount
Race can only be accessed by passing by some of those hikes so
it's not suprising that many hikers utter, "uh, I've had enough...I'll
try for Race another day".
Mount Race was a one of those
destinations I'd always meant to get to, but never did. At 2,365 feet
and nestled deep within a forest ridgeline - presenting just the sort
of thing that intrigues me - it should have been a place I had notched
a long time ago. I had tried. Thunderstorms, not yet in good hiking
shape, and a short winter day, all kept me from the journey to Mount
Race and forced me to turn back. Well, I finally got to Mount Race
early summer '05 and I can personally vouch that it's well worth the
effort to get there. The views are stunning and there is a short
section of trail that is scary...but a good scary! The kind
of spot that makes you go "This is why I hike!". There's a sheer
drop-off of hundreds of feet spreading out into a massive valley scene
below. The drop-off in some sections couldn't be more than 15 feet from
the Appalachian Tail you'll be hiking on. It feels more like 2 or 3
feet from the drop-off, but it's not. If you just calm down, relax, and
hike with caution you'll see there is plenty of trail and flat ground
to keep you tumbling down even if you lost your balance and fell. And a
smile wide should spread out all over your face or perhaps you'll just
stand in awe. If you're hiking in a south to north direction as
we were, it comes upon you suddenly after a long forest hike so it
really sends a jolt of adrenaline through you. The instinct is to grab
the nearest tree limb, sit down, or yell out something cool... or
unprintable here. It's not El Capitan, but it is an impressive
drop off and it's the only stretch along southern New England's
Appalachian Trail that has this type of scene. You gotta check it out
if you haven't been.
I had the good fortune of venturing
in with two other hikers from northern Massachusetts who also had never
been to Mount Race. And one of them has provided the photographs on
this pace. Thankfully she had a camera with her as it would have been a
major league bummer to have finally made to Mount Race, but with no
camera to document it...which is exactly what I did.
We "cheated" a bit by parking one car
way up high on at the dirt parking lot for Sages Ravine and another car
all the way down at the base of Race Brook Falls off Route 41 in
Sheffield, Massachusetts. But cheating is not the right word since it
was still a hearty hike to say the least. 90 degrees and about 7
miles of hiking; 70% of it was flat or down hill hiking with
a not so bad of a stretch to hike up to Mount Race. It was
a long day of hiking, but plenty of rewards to keep us
energized. We passed through the tumbling waters of Sages Ravine (click here for
the Sages Ravine page), across a quiet
mountain ridge to Bear Rock Falls and its valley
views, up to the sweeping vistas and sheer drop off of Mount Race
plateau, and down picturesque Race Brook Falls (click here for Race
Brook Falls page).
It was a little to early for the spectacular Mountain Laurel bloom
(happens mid-June thru early July) but wildflowers, ferns, bushes,
blueberries just budding, and hardwoods tall and miniature, filled in a
scene Monet would certainly have appreciated. If you have the ability
to bring two cars I highly recommend the option we took - Sages Ravine
to Race Brook Falls. It's a great hike! It's not easy...but if you take
your time, rest and listen to your body when it's telling you to rest,
and bring at least 2 liters of water and a big lunch with healthy
snacks, you'll be just fine. You can easily follow the Appalachian
Trail from Sages Ravine to Mount Race like we did. It could be 4-6
hours of time for you, depending upon your pace and conditioning.
There are Appalachian Trail campsites off of Sages Ravine and Bear Rock
Falls (now called Laurel Hill) if you wanted to do an overnight
backpack. Campsites are first come, first served (you cannot
reserve a campsite as it's open to everyone who hikes in). If you join
the Appalachian Mountain Club, you can reserve a fantastic cabin near
the beginning of this hike. It's for members only and it's the nicest
one in Connecticut I have seen. (Follow posted instructions for
keeping food sources/scraps safe from black bears snooping around at
night).
(Special note: In late
June/first week of July the Mountain Laurel blooms
all over the forest. White and pink blossoms are
everywhere and it's a unique sight. The last 2
weeks of October - possibly first week of November
- the leaves turn colors to create the spectacular
fall foliage.)
There are several ways to get to Mount
Race. I'm going to detail the path we took and will list the other
options at the end of this trail description.
To access the hike that we tried, park
one car in the Race Brook Falls parking lot which off Route 41 in
Sheffield, Massachusetts. Then drive up Mount Washington Road which is
just a few hundred feet south of the intersection where Route 41 and
Route 23 meet in South Egremont, Massachusetts. Head up Mount
Washington Road for 8 miles to Mount Washington State Forest (somewhere
along the way Mount Washington Road becomes East Street so don't be
confused if you suddenly see East Street signs). Eventually an
intersection with an old white church on your left presents itself and
you go straight through the intersection. A short distance later is
Mount Washington entrance on your right (Note: Alander Mountain Trail
is an amazing hike to come back to some other day at Mount Washington
parking lot). Go passed the state forest and keep on the same road.
Soon it will turn into a dirt road (VERY bumpy and nasty - and
extremely muddy early spring and maybe impassible in winter the further
in you go) and few miles later the last remaining homes will end
as you enter into protected forest of Mount Riga/Mount Washington
forest. After the last house, it's a short drive up the dirt road
and you'll notice 2 dirt parking lots on your left. The first one has a
tiny "no parking" sign on a tree (that's actually a picture with tow
truck pulling a car). I can't imagine they would actually tow anyone
but I can't ignore the sign and tell you it's okay to park there.
(The Connecticut/Massachusetts state border post is just before this
lot but it's hard to see.) The next big parking area on the left
is where you want to park and is also the trail head for this hike.
(Find other parking if the lot is full but be sure to pull way off the
road as in Connecticut this is road is monitored often.) NOTE:
During winter this part of the dirt road beyond the homes, and in
particular the CT/MA border, could be impassable or even closed by the
state. The Connecticut section is definitely closed in winter to
vehicles but the parking area for this hike even in winter should be
open no problem.
A trail head heading east into the
forest is obvious from the parking lot. It's an old utility road called
Northwest Road (no signs I'm aware of that tell you the name of this
trail). Most people call this the "Sages Ravine entrance" because Sages
Ravine is short 20 minute hike from the parking lot. There's an easy
flat section of trail to get you warmed up for the rest of the hike.
About a half mile, maybe a little more, from the parking lot the trail
meets up with the Appalachian Trail. It would NOT be hard
to walk right over the Appalachian Trail and into the woods,
as it's a very subtle thing here where an old
path, no longer used, gives you the impression
that you should keep hiking straight. The fact
there are no signs (or painted arrows) telling you it's the A.T.
doesn't help either.
But unless you're seriously daydreaming or talking a mile a minute and
not paying attention you should see the A.T. crossing in a left/right
(north/south) direction. There are some wooden planks down on the
trail you can use for reference. Go left and follow the WHITE hash
marks of the A.T. down to Sages Ravine (about 20 minutes from the
car). [You could go right to hop up for a visit to Bear Mountain which is
Connecticut's highest peak. It's about a half mile
hike to Bear Mountain's summit from this spot. But it'
s a steep hike of about 600 or 700 feet of elevation in a very short
distance so maybe you can come back another day and explore Bear
Mountain and the miles of trail beyond it like Lions Head lookout.
The A.T. here is about 1600 or 1700 feet above sea level and Bear
Mountain is 2,316]
But going left in the direction
of Sages Ravine is a rocky but easy hike. A short distance later
you'll notice a trail sign that says Paradise Lane Trail (another
option for checking out Bear Mountain some day would be to do the
Undermountain Trail of Route 411 in Salisbury, Connecticut up to Paradise
Lane Trail, up to Bear Mountain via the A.T. and down the other side of
Bear to Undermountain Trail, back to your car...VERY difficult hike).
But for this hike, ignore Paradise Lane and keep going down along the
A.T., following its white hash marks. The ravine is beautiful and it
plummets in between the hillsides and lush forest canopy with a near
tropical floor scene bursting with ferns. Along the way there are
campsites you can check out if you're into camping but otherwise just
stay with the white hash marks of the A.T. until the very bottom of the
ravine, the A.T. crosses over the stream to the other side (If you do
decide to camp here, follow all instructions for securing your food
from black bears...no need to worry about being bothered my them but
don't give them an easy way to steal your supplies and make a mess if
they happen to swoop by during the night. Doing so also protects the
bears from becoming too people friendly and ensures their survival). If
it's rained a lot or tons of snow melt flows, you'll get wet boots at
the bottom of Sages but most of the time you hop and skip on some rocks
to get over with dry feet.
From here it's about 3 miles to
Mount Race and soon the rush and drama of Sages fades with a beautiful
hardwood forest, peaceful and quiet, taking over and changing the pace
and feel of the hike. Song birds and woodpeckers will be
your companions through this stretch with a few high pitched
chirps from chipmunks who are tipping off your arrival to other chips.
For those of you living in southern Connecticut, you'll notice huge
birch trees that are no longer prevalent like they were
decades ago. Whether it's global warming, spreading suburbia, or other
factors, birch trees like this are rare south of here. Eventually
you'll come upon Laurel Hills campsite (used to be known as Bear Rock Falls). Further up and to your right,
there are some really nice rocky outcrops
that offer up gorgeous eastern views.
It may or may not be closed off do to reforestation
projects but if you find a spot just be very
careful venturing over towards where Bear Rock
Falls plummets over the mountainside. You
can't see the falls but you can get up close to
where it plummets over. But stay away from the edge. The
thick tree tops make it seem as though it's not
a big drop off. It is. If you fell, you'd die...or if
you survived the fall some how they'd have to pull
off one of the most dramatic rescue
operations this region has seen in awhile. It's
remote, dangerous (for the rescue workers), and would take
them forever to find you...then they'd have to
figure out how to get you out of
there. So, just sit back well away
from the edge and enjoy the views and
just listen to the waterfall rather than going into "I have to see
this up close" mode. This one of those spots
a little kid could just wander too close or someone
could start talking and walking around, forget to watch
where they were and...whamo...tragedy in a blink of
an eye.
I'm recommending this hike because it's fantastic and a ton of
fun, but feel an obligation to warn you of possible danger. Don't
be scared to check this area out but use your head and don't wind up in
the newspaper for all the wrong reasons. The hikers I were with
had good instincts. Without having to warn them they just stayed well
away and enjoyed the views and shady rest among the trees...they
instinctively knew to just enjoy it but not push their luck. They
respected the spot and they didn't even bother going to the edge of
where the fall plummets over. Smart.
After the Bear Rock Falls area you
just continue on towards Mount Race along the Appalachian Trial.
The trail begins to rise steady but it's never really steep. It may get
to you a bit because you've been hiking for awhile but just rest when
you need to and take it slow. You will get a workout as you make your
way north along the mountain ridge but it's never more than a gradual
climb. Mount Race is different in that it just seems to keep
going up to a summit point, then you realize you've got more to go!
It's one of those spots where you won't be able to say "this is the
highest point". As it rises up notice how the trees are much
shorter in this region. They almost look like banzai trees or as if a
gardener comes around frequently to prune. Harsh winters more
than anything keep these trees from getting too big...they're wise old
trees. They know it's best to keep things simple in order to survive
and thrive. (If you hike in winter, you'd better know what you're
doing and dressed with all the proper winter gear and equipment. It can
get brutally cold with howling winds that could put frostbite on
exposed skin. )
As you
come closer to the top there is a section of trail
that might really scare some people. If you have
a fear of heights with sheer dropoffs, the trail
sort of emerges out of the woods and suddenly
into the open with a massive drop off that's just about
15 feet from the trail edge.
It's scary initially but there's plenty of trail to hike along - but if
you tripped and tumbled over, it's conceivable that you could tumble
all the way over but even then you should have enough buffer to prevent
falling hundreds of feet down. I hate sheer drop offs and not
able to stand close to edges with huge verticals, but spots like
this produce a healthy fear without terrifying me; it's a fun
fear! This is one of the spots you'll likely talk about later on
when you get back home. The views are stunning and the drop offs give
you an adrenaline rush. For southwestern New England, this is about as
dramatic as it gets. I don't want to give the impression that it's
comparable to the Swiss Alps, but it's more than pretty cool.
There's even a large rock that allows for the classic hiker pose.
The trail continues to rise up along
the eastern side of the mountain, giving up more and more wonderful
views that should at least produce some jaw dropping awe. Then it bends
slowly on top (look to your left (west and southwest) and on a clear
day the Catskill rise up high in the distance with the Shawangunks tiny bumps way off southwest),
then over to the northwestern side of Mount Race before
heading back down into the forest. Along the way a few rock
cairns (piles of manmade rock appear and one of them marks Mount Race's
apex, though I'm not sure which one). On the day we were there,
turkey vultures swooped in for close looks and a wild raven was sunning
itself on a rock...mouth wide open for ventilation. It looked cool and
my fellow hikers got up close with their cameras. The raven then flew
off and gave out wild yells as if to distract us from possibly finding
its nest. Like a lot of mountaintops around here, the hardwoods
and pines are stunted in growth. As noted before, several look like
banzai trees...fully mature but miniature in size. Though we
were pressed for time by the time we reached Mount Race and needed to
continue on right away, it's a great spot to just chill out and take in
all the magnificent scenery and overviews. Just rest and enjoy
your reward for hiking in so far. This is the perfect spot to
have lunch and just chill out from the hustle and bustle of everyday
life. You deserve it if you've made it this far! You've still
got a lot of trail left but the hard part is over...though some think
coming down is just as hard as hiking up!
About a mile after Mount Race's summit the A.T.
meets up with the BLUE
trail
markers of Race Brook Falls. There are a couple of trail posts within
50 feet of each other. The second one has more specific information and
will tell you it's 2.5 miles to your car. If for some reason you
are feeling fantastic and not tired after this long hike, it's only 0.7
miles up to Mt Everett's summit which also has some tremendous views
(the old fire tower was taken down long ago so you can't scramble over
the fence and illegally climb the tower for those 360 degree views
anymore. It's a tough hike up but only adds about 1.5 mile round trip
so if you're feeling great, grab another mountain top at 2,602 feet.
For that you'd continue along the white hash marks of the Appalachian
Trail and then just come back down to this spot the same way you hiked
up. But if you've had your fill for the day, then turn right and
follow the blue trail markers of Race Brook Falls.
It's a relatively short
walk through the woods until you reach the brook
that feeds Race Brook Falls. You'll follow it
(make sure you keep your eyes on the blue
trail markers as it would be easy to lose them during certain
spots along this section of trail) and eventually cross over a
foot bridge and on up to the first tier of waterfall. The hike through
this short section is a unique blend of dark forest and lush greens
along the forest floor. Little bogs, streams, etc., change the
environment once again. It's here you have a choice. If you're
tired or have had enough, go left and follow the blue trail markers
into the woods. It bend around the falls, crosses at the base of the
top waterfall tier (there are three tiers), goes back into the woods
where you'll hike all the way back to your car hearing, but not
seeing, the two lower tiers of the falls - they are nearly
identical to this third tier so if you miss them you at least have
an idea of what they're like. Another option is to hike an inner
blue trail that stays close to the waterfall. However, I find
the blue markers hard to spot at times and some sections of trail might
be too steep or slippery for some. This is potentially hazardous if
you're not familiar with the trail system or if you're legs are tired
from a long hike but there's no doubt it's a thrilling hike especially
if the falls are running strong.
It's a steep drop and in certain points a little hairy at time
because the falls cascade a few hundred feet in about a mile. As noted,
it's also easier to loose track of the trail markers which could send
you closer into the falls than you wanted to go and maybe into one of
those "what do I do know?" predicaments. It's a gorgeous waterfall to
see up close but a few spots are dangerous with very steep
drop offs. My advice would just be to follow the outer/main blue
trail as it winds around the water and back down the mountain through
the forest if you feeling tired. This trail eventually meets up with
another trail and you take a right where they meet for short walk
out of the forest and to your car at the Route 41 parking lot. Or
you can take a left and hike back up a short, and not too steep a
trail, to see the first waterfall tier.
Oh, and don't forget
your camera like I did. Fortunately, one my
hiking partners saved the day by allowing me to use hers and produced the
photos you're seeing on this page. This is a photo op you wouldn't want to miss.
Other hiking options for Mount Race:
If you're the type that
likes a full on, "wipe me out", high octane
workout or you don't have two cars to bring to
park on either end of the trail, you have 4
options. But...you'll need to be in VERY
good shape to attempt these. These are long hard
hikes and you will have to turn around and hike
back so you will be out all day. 2-3 liters of
water, a big lunch and
lots of snacks, and LOTS of time and
patience. I don't recommend
these options at all if you're not out there
hiking up mountains all the time or not working
out at the gym getting 1-2 hours of cardio on a
regular basis. I do recommend them for camping
out. These are perfect 2 day hikes instead of
doing them in one day.
1) Race Brook Falls to
Mount Race
The "easiest" of the
hard routes. It's not easy of course but it is by
far the shortest. About 3 miles up to Mount Race,
and then back to your car, with elevation gain of
about 1,500 feet. The parking lot is about 700 or
800 feet above sea level and Mount Race is 2,365
feet high. You'll want to check out the amazing
Race Brook Falls so follow the inner trail loops
(blue trail system with blue marks on trees,
rocks, etc) to experience it. Or you can do the
outer loops that make it easier to hike around the
falls, but you won't see much of it if you take
the outer loops (click here for Race Brook Falls page). When you've scaled the entire
waterfall, the brook flattens out and you follow the
blue trails into the woods. A really peaceful
hike through here for about a half mile. Eventually
the blue trails meets up with the white trail
markings of the Appalachian Trail. Around this area
are campgrounds for overnight camping. But if
you're not camping, you go LEFT (south) onto
the Appalachian Trail, following the white hash marks. You've got 1 mile of uphill
hiking to Mount Race. For this option park at the
Race Brook Falls lot off Route 41 in Sheffield, MA
(a few miles north over the border if you're
coming from Connecticut via Route 41). Keep hiking
on to the other side of Mount Race for more
wonderful vistas. At
the far end of this open trail space be very
careful. If you're afraid of sheer dropoffs,
there's a portion of trail that lasts a
few hundred yards that could be very scary to
some. If you somehow lost your balance and tumbled
over...it could be a loooonggg way down. So please
concentrate through this section or just stay away
from it if it makes you nervous . However, if you just use common
sense the trail is more than wide enough to
protect you from the edge. It's a fun spot that
will definitely get your adrenaline running!
Round trip this hike would be 3-5 hours depending
upon your pace.
2) Undermountain Trail
to Bear Mountain to Sages Ravine to Mount
Race
If you can do this in one
day, you're officially in great shape! Now, some
of you will take that as a challenge to prove you
are in great shape. Please don't...I believe
you...you don't have to prove it. Otherwise, you
may underestimate this option and really wind up
regretting it if you're not a seasoned hiker (it's
no fun being way out there with that "I've had enough" feeling, only to realize you've
got a mammoth hike all the way back to the car). This is
for the hard core hiker in great cardio shape
(or of course you can camp along the
A.T. and break this into 2 days of
hiking).
What a thrilling hike this is! You'll
take in some of the best natural highlights this region has to
offer. Three miles north of Salisbury, CT on Route 41 is the
parking lot/trail head for Undermountain Trail. It's on your left
(on your right if you've come from Massachusetts). From the trail head
to the Appalachian Trail is about 2 miles and it's another mile to Bear
Mountain's peak which is CT's highest peak at 2,316 feet. So from
the parking lot it's about 1,500 feet vertical climb in 3 miles - this
isn't a walk in the park for the average day hiker. This will get
anyone's blood pumping hard. From Bear Mountain down to Sages
Ravine is another mile, then about 3 more miles to Mount Race from
Sages. The whole hike is in the 6 to 7 mile range so that's 12-14
miles round trip (another option for this one would be park at
Undermountain Trail lot and another car at Race Brook Falls lot then
you could hike beyond Mount Race then down Race Brook Falls). On the
way back you could bypass Bear Mountain by taking Paradise Lane Trail
and dipping under Bear Mountain and back to Undermountain Trail. It
would take a little distance and a few hundred feet of elevation of the
return hike. Pack in a gallon of water (2 liters would be really
pushing it, so more is better) and 2 large meals (trust me, you might
get hungry...twice!). Expect to spend 5-10 hours round trip
depending upon your pace and conditioning. Don't
do this in late fall, winter (don't do this in winter alone or without
lot's of hiking experience in cold weather), or early spring. The day's
are short and it's really stupid to hike in the dark, with cold weather
just waiting for you to make a mistake.
3) Lion's Head to Bear
Mountain to Mount Race
Like the Undermountain Trail option,
this one is long (about 12-14 miles round trip). However, by
driving up a mountain road to the parking lot for Lion's Head it's not
as steep as the Undermountain Trail. Instead of 1,500 elevation
gain to Bear Mountain like the Undermountain Trail presents,
it's about 700 or 800 feet of elevation to Bear Mountain. From
there it's the same stretch of trail to Mount Race. So, it's
probably an hour or two shorter round trip than the Undermountain
option. (Option: You could also park at Lions Head then a car at
Race Brook Falls to create a fantastic all day hike.)
You start with
a steep but short hike up to Lion's
Head...which is a wonderful spot for a day
hike. You then just follow the white hash
marks of the Appalachian Trail north to Bear
Mountain, pass by Sages Ravine, and over to
Mount Race. The hike from Lion's Head to
Bear Mountain is about 3 miles, maybe a touch
less. It's a slow easy climb all the way until the
last bit makes you hike up steep trail. But it's
not difficult at all (
click here for
the Lion's Head to Bear Mountain
page
). Read the option above on how
to get from Bear Mountain to Mount Race. If
you try Lion's Head to Mount Race, bring a gallon
of water and 2 large meals. And you're
camera!
4) Jug End Road to
Mount Race
This one is about 5
miles from Jug End Road along the A.T. to Mount
Race (10 miles round trip), and maybe has hard as
the Undermountain Trail option. You start
out on Jug End Road (about 700 or 800 feet above
see level) and a mile later you're 1,834 atop Mt.
Bushnell. About 2 miles after hiking
along a ridge you swing up some more to Mt.
Everett's peak (2,602 feet). A mile down the other
side of Everett, always staying with the white has
marks of the Appalachian Trail, you dip down to
about 1,700 feet. Then another mile up hike into
the forest to Mount Race's 2,365 foot wide
open peak. 5 to 8 hours round trip depending
upon your pace and conditioning. Bring a gallon of
water and two large meals.
Printable
version of the Mount Race page
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